With two friends, Michael and Nigel, we set out to discover a lost river of London. There is a lot of information around the Web, greatly helping. We completed our discovery in two legs on fine cold winter days in 2009. The walk started from the mouth at Chelsea. We headed north, trying to follow the course of the river as best we could.
The river is now effectively a sewer. Nevertheless we followed it in the vain of a real river, imaging what the original landscape might have looked like.
Walk 1 - From the mouth at Chelsea to Paddington
Starting from the Thames near to Battersea
Bridge, we were unable to find any evidence of the Westbourne outflow
due to high tide. Just along Chelsea Embankment on the south side was
an ornate pipe. This could only be a Victorian vent for the sewer.
The land around Ranelagh Gardens is very
flat. It is easy to imagine this area as marshy where the river
entered the Thames. On the right hand side of Chelsea Bridge Road is
the former sight of Chelsea Barracks, alas now demolished to make way
for luxury flats.
The route
meanders along the Chelsea-Westminster boundary through side streets.
These streets are fascinating for there relatively calm and quaint
nature. Bourne Street is a clear indication of the nearby existence
of the river. Sloane Square station is one of the more dramatic and
visual aspects of the Westbourne. From a point on Skinner Place the
piped river can be clearly seen running across the station.
The buildings become grander and it is well
to spend a little time exploring a few of the mewses and alleys. Not
only does it give you a feeling of following the river, but provides
a glimpse into the grandeur of the area. In a mews off West Eaton
Place we found a stone reading HHSC. What did it mean? Surprisingly
we found the same initials later.
As the walk approaches Knightsbridge, a sign
welcomes the visitor to the area at Pont Street. Was Pont Street the
site of a bridge, or is it just a clever made-up name? This area is
close to Belgrave Square and is home to many foreign embassies. We got a little
distracted by trying to identify and compare all the different
embassies. The diversion and back tracking was well worth it. There are
many interesting buildings in the area and it is worth taking in the
variety of architecture.
At a junction on Lowndes Street there was
another vent. This uninteresting green pipe was good evidence of the
river turned into sewer below.
Knightsbridge is itself a busy area and
thoroughfare. It was easy to imagine this area being historically
important as a major crossing point of the Westbourne. The fact that
is still forms the main western road corridor of the A4 suggests the
importance.
The first sight of water is just before the
Serpentine in Hyde Park. Despite the waterfall, the feature is
undoubtedly ornamental. Nevertheless, it was good to imagine it
being the real thing. At this point it is worth looking out for those
little pieces of historical evidence. A small monument attested to
how the waters of the Westbourne were diverted at this point to
supply Westminster.
Hyde Park itself is a good place to relax. We
took the north bank of the Serpentine, crossed the Serpentine Bridge
and then doubled back to the cafe for a welcome break. Whilst
enjoying your break, take some time to read about the Serpentine
swimming club.
Refreshed we carried along the south bank to
Long Water. At the head of Long Water are a set of fountains and a
pumping house. He we found another plaque with HHSC on it. Behind the
pump house was a path which looked suspiciously like it could have
once been part of a bridge. It is at this point where the river
formed a boundary between Westminster and the parish of
Paddington.
The area from Lancaster Gate to Paddington
has many tantalising names, such as
Smallbrook Mews and Conduit Mews. We followed the aptly named Brook
Mews North, Upbrook Mews and Gloucester Mews West which appeared to
be a more reliable route. We took a quick diversion to Westbourne
Terrace. This thoroughfare could well have once been a terrace of the
Westbourne, because it is clear the land slopes down at right angles.
We found ourselves at Hallfield Estate. We
speculated why this estate suddenly appeared on the route in land
lower than the surrounding. Could it have been a gravel pit for the
building of the Georgian housing estate? Some later investigation claims it
is a former World War II bomb site. Not such a glamorous image.
We were now at the end of the first leg of the
walk. We continued to follow Bishop's Bridge Road westward and onto Westbourne
Grove. Even though the lay of land and the street names were
compelling for this to be the Westbourne, in fact it was the course
of the Tyburn Brook. It is likely however that the Bishop's Bridge
might have been a real crossing point. It was possible to imagine
this whole area to be flat and marshy where the two rivers joined.
Walk 2 - Paddington to Hampstead Heath
This was always going to be a difficult route
to follow. The southern section is well documented and the northern
section was only clear up to Kilburn.
We started from Paddington Station and wove
around the streets in order to ensure we were picking up the right
route. We were forced to walk along Westbourne Bridge to cross the
railway lines. It is possible to imagine the river running slightly
to the west underneath.
It was tempting to see Westbourne Green at
Bourne Terrace as a former meadow. The most likely story is just a
co-incidence in the building of the estate. The route crosses the
Grand Union canal and takes a sharp left turn onto Shirland Road. The
buildings and architecture are very mixed in this area. The library
and old dairy were the most interesting.
We took a short break at the Chippenham on
the corner of Shirland Road and Kilburn Park Road. This fascinating
pub was once a venue for Michael's band when he was younger. It is
fascinating how the different strands of our lives come together in
unexpected ways. Although Michael had grown up around this area, he
was now seeing it from a different perspective.
At the northern end of Kilburn Park Road, we
noted the number of religious establishments all close to one
another. A large Anglican church and school, a synagogue and a
mosque. The mosque on Maida Vale was clearly a former picture palace.
From this point it was going to hard to
follow the route. Other documented routes would take us towards Swiss
Cottage. We were determined to follow the lay of the land to guide
our route. However, before we undertook this venture, we diverted off
to Kilburn High Road to find a place to have a cup of tea and a
break.
Even though not part of the intended route,
we came across an interesting plaque on the pavement. Surely this
must have been the site of a bridge across the Westbourne. We
endeavoured to start where we left off and so headed down Springfield
Lane (once again a suspicious name) and headed along Kilburn Priory.
At Belsize Road it was not exactly clear which way to go. We turned
left.
The low ground appeared to be along Kilburn
Place. Here there was a small chapel with an interesting plague.
Then through the housing estate, right onto West End Lane and left
into Mutrix Road. Crossing Quex Road we headed up Mazendo Avenue
stopping off briefly to have a look at the Roman Catholic church. We
should have probably kept heading down the hill and right into
Kingsgate Road. Kingsgate felt right and was probably the natural
extension from Kilburn Bridge. We must have jumped tributaries.
At the junction of Netherwood Street, Sheriff
Road and Lowfield Road the route clearly carried straight ahead
towards the railway. With three railway lines in the way of our
intended route we made a decision to turn right, cross the lines at
West Hampstead and then try to pick up the route again.
Walking along Sumatra Road we found good evidence
of the stream near the junction of Pandora Road. There was a
definite low point in the road. The stream appeared to run between
Sumatra Road and Solent Road. At Mill Lane we turned right. It was
not exactly clear the best way to go and right seemed less up hill
than left. In retrospect, I suspect the stream headed north towards
Fortune Green and we had just jumped tributaries
again.
We crossed West End Green and picked up our
route along Canon Hill. I now believe we had crossed to another tributary. In order to clear up the confusion
of tributaries, we will have to revisit the area again. We assumed the following three tributaries existed:
- to the west across Kilburn Bridge, up Kingsgate road and on towards Fortune Green
- to the east towards Swiss Cottage that has been documented
- in the centre from Kilburn Priory along Priory Road and Honeybourne Road.
We were once again on the central branch.
Crossing the busy Finchley Road we headed along
Heath Drive and into Reddington Gardens with confidence we were back on
track. At the end of Reddington Gardens there was a drain in which
running water could be clearly heard. Surely this must be the
Westbourne.
Being hilly this area took lots of exploring.
There were probably multiple streams feeding the main Westbourne
channel. At the end of Reddington Gardens there is useful footpath
that leads onto Heysham Lane. After circling around back through Oak
Hill Park, the bourne must have flowed in a deep valley between Oak
Hill Way and Spedan Close.
The natural route took us into Lower Terrace.
Not being familiar with this part of Hampstead, I was suddenly aware
we were at the covered reservoir. We ended the walk at Whitestone Pond
on the top of Hampstead Heath. In all the years that we have passed
this way did we ever think this was a source of the Westbourne.
References
Here is a collection of some useful reference sites:
Last updated: 9th March 2009